dinsdag 22 december 2009

Welcome to Nepal, goodbye beautiful Tibet

Hidiho,

Finally in Nepal. But already stuck in the border town, because of a strike which paralyzes the whole country. No one can use any transport. If they do, their vehicle gets wrecked. So no one wants to bring us to Kathmandu. But its oke. Its relaxing here in the beautiful valley of the Himalayas from which one side is Chinese, and the other is Nepalese.

So only the day after tomorrow we can leave. Tomorrow we'll visit a hot spring, the only thing to see here besides the dirty streets and the dirty hillsides littered with all the rubbish the people can't use.

But before we arrived here, we crossed Tibet, a really magical country. We were so lucky with the weather, which was blue blue and sunny. It was awesome. The people in Tibet are totally different from the Chinese. They laugh much more, are very friendly and are very spiritual. It's like there life is all about there believe, Buddhism.
They are really beautiful, but also very dirty. In the way they seem not to wash them very often. The children are often really black of the dirt. But on the same moment shining from the inside.

It is the kind of people which I had expected to find in Mongolia. But probably communism has killed all this people, or certainly, this kind of spirits.

Also the countryside is very similar to Mongolia. Huge place , few people an enormous beautiful.

Together with the Dutch couple, Gerald and Anette, we had a great time. We had little problems with altitude sickness, but it is really not something to underestimate. Without the medication, we would have had problems. Around the mount Everest we walked for 8 km, but it felt like 20. The icy wind blowing in our face all the time, luckily still sunny, but on the end, Gerald and I where exhausted, with a huge headache. But the woman were oke. So they could take care for us. In the night all the bottles of water were frozen, inside our sleeping room!! Luckily we could use all the blankets we could find.

Also the monasteries are tho most beautiful and authentic I have ever seen. But,....

The Chinese really control everything. There are everywhere spy's disguised as tourists, or monks, or whatever. Our Tibetan guides where really scared to talk in public about there thoughts about politics. All the pictures of the living Dalai Lama are illegal and also the Tibetan flag.
There 'peaceful liberation' is really a cultural genocide. The Tibetans have less rights as Chinese. If they are very kind and sheepish and very rich they can get a passport to leave the country, but it costs a full year wage!! Our guides husband was imprisoned one year for entering the country illegal after going to Nepal, he was only 25 now.
They have a hard time.

On the other hand, our driver and guide weren't the nicest guide and driver we could have. Really not motivated in the contrary with the guides husband who guided us for one day. He was really relaxing, motivated, nice and helpful. It's a pity, but besides that, we had a great time. you'll see on the pics, its unbelievable.

greets,

Simon and Saar

donderdag 10 december 2009

To Lhasa!!!

So, finally we write from Chengdu, one hour before leaving for Lhasa!!


As we said, Yangzhuo was really a nice time. Riding on our rented tandem (duo bike) between the sugerbread-shaped hills and along the beautiful Li river.
Finally after a lot of snow we could relax in this nice and warm surrounding. Well I slept for two days to get rid of my fever. But after four days I was back the old one, except my lips were still full of herpes vesicles.

One day we visited the local market. Saartje left after entering five meter when she saw a truncated fish head stil moving vividly.
I went on but came out really shocked. We heard the people there sell skinned dogs, so I was curious, but it was much worse then I had expected. The dogs where just treated like actually all animals are treated. They were stacked with so many in such a small cage, but much worse, there fellows got slaughtered just in front of there nose, just like 10 cm!! The prepared ones where hanging on hooks in the front. Just like rabbits, but it felt so much worse. ...

So after This beautiful place we left back to Guilin where we visited some more little beautiful villages after which we took the train for 25 hours direction Chengdu.

Here, in this big and vivid city with 4,4 million people we really slowed down. We were little sick of sight seeing. So in two weeks we only visited the panda 'zoo', the main square, the peoples park, some hours further, the biggest Buddha of the world and many hours further(12) the most beautiful natural reserve we saw up till now.The panda's where so cute, but stil bears and dangerous!
The Buddha was an 'o waw' experience, after we went back. We didn't really visit it, we just took the pont to an island opposite of the Buddha, from which we had a very good view. We saved 9 euro's each!

The natural reserve was just so beautiful, it was a pity we couldn't walk on the walking pads because of fire danger.
Just admire it on there site: www.jiuzhai.com
The way to there was very interesting to see how the earthquake of 2008 did so much damage. It must have been horrifying to have been in that valley. Half mountains just came down! Damaged houses, collapsed bridges, broken roads,...crazy


Normally our plan was to take the bus from the park to another city where we could take the train to Xinnig, but there was no bus going anymore. So we had to go back to Chengdu.

Apparently a good plan of God, because the day after we arrived, we got mail from a Dutch couple who wanted join us!!! www.geraldanette.reismee.nl
Which they do!!!

So tonight we leave with the train to Lhasa for 48 hours.

This is our Itinerary for Tibet:


Day 01 : Arrival in Lhasa by train, will be received and transfer to hotel in Lhasa,
Day 02 : Day in Lhasa / optional visits in Lhasa
Day 03 : Day in Lhasa / optional visits in Lhasa

======================================


Day 04 : Day trip option 01

Drive Lhasa to Ganden monastery, touring the monastery, option to do a 3 to 4 hrs trek crossing Ganden ridge to Trup Shi village where we can visit a local Tibetan family for some local drinks and snacks, then meet our driver and drive back to Lhasa, over night stay in Lhasa



=============================================


Day 05 : Lhasa - Yamdrok lake - Gyangtse 260kms / 7hrs

Leaving Lhasa and the Kyi Chu valley towards the Khampa la pass ( 4730metres ), at the pass we have a short break for stunning views of some major white peaks in the eastern regions of Himalaya to the south and the young Norjing Gang Sang spiritual snow mountain range to the west across the turquise colored waving waters of Yamdrok lake, descending from the pass down close to the lake and driving passing the local nomadic and farming villages as far as to the western edge of Yamdrok lake where we have our lunch break at Nagar Tse, after lunch continue our scenic driving to Karo la pass ( 5050metres ) where we have our first high altitude adventure experience of Norjing Gang Sang glacier peak and visiting the local nomads with the Yaks, we have our arrival in Gyangtse late afternoon , check in hotel in Gyangtse, Jian Zang or similar ( 3850metres )



Day 06 : Gyangtse sightseeing - Shigatse 90kms / 2hrs

After breafkast, we visit the local historical and the cultural centers, The Palkhor Chode monastery including the Kumbum stupa ( the only survival with such distinctive structure and the thousands of art works ) and a climb to the ancient local Gyangtse fort is worthy choice by being in Gyangtse, at noon we drive through Nying Chu valley, passing local farming Tibetan villages with stops at their farm-lands and as well as stops at a few local villages with visits to a few of the local families, arriving in Shigatse afternoon, check in the hotel, same day afternoon touring the Tashi Lunpo monastery and the local tradtional market, hotel stay at Gang Gyen or similar



Day 07 : Shigatse - Sakya monastery - Shekar - Tashi Zong Village 320kms / 6hrs

Leaving Shigatse town, Drive continue west on the friendship high way to Sakya, visit Sakya monastery ( The main seat of Sakya pa sect of Tibetan Buddhism ) a monastery which was once became the political center of majority parts of Tibetan territory and its history dates back to the11th century contemporary to the second diffusion of Tibetan Buddhism in Tibet ), It has now still the largest library for ancient Buddhist scriptures although thousands of precious scriptures were destroyed during cultural revolution, after the visit we take our lunch there and late after noon drive to Shekar and then on to Tashi Zong village, over night at a local farmer`s guest house



Day 08 : Tashi Zong village - Rombuk - Everest base camp 60kms / 1 1/2hrs

We have a basic breakfast at the guest served by the family and then we drive to Rombuk, where we make a short stop and then you could start your hike from Rombuk up to Za Rumbuk where we have the locals running camp guest houses, check in the guest house



Day 09 : Everest / Nyalam 220kms / 7hrs

Spend a beautiful morning in Rombuk and Everest base camp, enjoying the sun-rising, late morning driving to Old Tingri where we have our lunch break, taking a walk around the village after lunch is interesting, late afternoon drive to Nyalam. ( 3700m )



Day 10 : Nyalam / Zhangmu Border / cross border

Driving down to border town ( Zhangmu ), clearing the immigration formalities and then cross border ;



End of the trip ;





Love


Simon and Saartje

vrijdag 20 november 2009

Trip to the south

Our first experience with Chinese trains. You can choose hard/soft seat of hard/soft sleeper. We took the train around midnight and would arrive at 6o'clock in the morning so we wouldn't have to pay for a night in a hotel. We tought we would be smart and safe money but eventually the first thing we did when we arrived in the morning was searching a hotel and sleep for another 4 hours :) . We took the hard sleepers, like we would do the rest of our journey. You can see it in the pictures, we sleep in an open dorm with six beds in one litlle place. For those six hours it was okay, we slept 5 hours because they woke us up at 5 o'clock, tapping our but the whole time to wake up. The trains are less comfortable and less clean then in Russia but they can be filled with much more people.

So after a good nap at a descend hotel, weird but true there are no hostels in Datong, we met Catrina and Daniel again. We met them in Beijing and they were gonna do almost the same trip like us so why not spend some time together?
So we waited for a bus who would bring us to the ancient Yunan Caves. It was suppose to leave in 5 minutes but left after 45 minutes when it was fully crowded and it dropped us off in the middle of the road. We were surprised, where were we? Surrounded by ten screaming motorcycling riders, we eventually gave in and payed them 5 yuan to bring us to the caves. And it was amazing. Even if all the touristic things around it irritated me so much, it was still worth it going there.

The next morning we met a taxidriver who wanted to bring us to the hanging monastery and a big ancient Pagoda. I can say that the Hanging monastery was nice to see but really disappointing if you pay for it to go up. You can see the monastery outside the gates and so it's really stupid to pay to go up and see nothing but the ticket office :/ But we don't have to moan because we could sneak in with the studentcards from Daniel and Catrina (many thanks by the way!). The same for the Pagoda, you can see it from the outside not worth to pay for it.
So we managed to get back before 4 O'clock and we hurried to change our trainticket so that we could arrive in Taiyuan before midnight. There was nothing more to see in the industrial city of Datong.

We arranged a sleeping place with Nancy, a couchsurfer from Taiyuan. So it was really relaxed to know that we already had a sleepingplace. Nancy was very nice but it was a bit a strange meeting an things didn't quit worked out. And the only thing we wanted to see was a museum, that was nice but not that we had to stop only for that. If you know what I mean. So we wanted to leave after 1 day but it started to snow, all lovely in the beginning. But after a couple of hours it was a lot. More then 0,5 m fell and it was total chaos in the city. We wanted to take the train but after 2,5hours waiting we knew he wasn't coming. So we booked a hotel, slept a good night and had a new idea the next morning: a bus! But stupid as we are, if there is a snowstorm, busses don't leave either :) So the only option : go back to the trainstation and wait. We were lucky, only 30 minutes later a train took us to our next stop : Pingyao.

The train we took was less comfortable :) We had hard seats that we had to share with 3 women and their babies. I'm so fond of little creatures, but these little ones in China don't have diapers on and it is so grose when they pee everywhere :/ Simon had his rainpants on, so he could sit in the peearea :) The wagon was filthy with spit and trash so we were happy it only lasted an hour.
Pingyao is a really old little village. Nice to wander arround for a couple of days. It was snowing here too, a lot of it. So when we wanted to take the train to Xi'an in the middle of the night, a couple of trains were canceled and delayed. The people we met in the hostel had to take a train with standingtickets for 10 hours (because there were so many people)! We were lucky, our train was delayed for only 30 minutes and we still had our sleepingplaces. But it was scary because some people said that there was another snowstorm coming and if we didn't leave on the next train we would be stuck for at least 4days!

When we arrived in Xi'an we went to an hostel, went for food and jumped on a bus to see the great terracotta warriors. I didn't had high expectations, about none of the touristic places, but it was great. We took a guide for the first time during our trip and it was worth it. She gave a lot of info, sometimes a bit like a robot, but Simon asked so many questions that we had the feeling that it is better to take a guide because otherwise you see some statues without the meaning. It was also good we went very late and the troops of tourists were already gone.
In the evening we met Sam and Amy again, our companions through Mongolia. It felt good to see them again. It was like seeing friends again after a while.

Next day we spent wondering around in the city, swabbing some books and try to stay warm. We met with Catrina and Daniel again and took the train to the south, to Guilin. 27 hours on the train, I can assure you, it's a lot! it was enough, espessially for Simon who became sicker by the hour.

Guilin is beautiful, I mean the nature. The city is one touristic place, but the suroundings are nice. Simon spent 3 days in bed while I arranged our visa-extension. Luckily he was better after a few days and we good go to the 'countryside'. Especially Yangshuo were we spent our time hiking and biking. A really relaxing time.

One week later we took the train to Chengdu, we stayed here one week relaxing, searching people to join us to Tibet ( who we almost found :) and tomorrow we leave for a nature park in the north for hiking.

Time for bed, good night,
big kiss

Saartje

haircuts in Beijing!

New haircut